Sebastian Tantout, a hotelier searching for meaning

The inn A la bonne idée hasn’t made much noise yet, because Chef Sebastien Tantout, 30, He remains very conservative and works without a press officer. But it is a title that gourmets, journalists, and chefs have secretly traded for a few months, like good insider advice, often accompanied by a sentence “Here’s the future of three stars.”. And for once, what happens is not in Paris, but in the oasis.

This modest inn is decorated with a Michelin star, Set in the woods of Compiègne, in Saint-Jean-aux-Bois, it is a unique experience that transports into a world we thought had been swallowed up, swept away by the tattooed, often talented, not always very original in their culinary approach to, the often talented Top Chef. When you enter A la bonne Idée, you will be immediately amazed at the retro atmosphere: floral wallpaper on the walls and ceiling with exposed beams, double tablecloths on the tables, and small floor lamps placed on each. The waiters wear a beige uniform – with a tie for the boys – and the chefs all have a chef’s hat. The latter comes regularly to perform artistic gestures in front of clients, a custom that is beginning to disappear in France at Pompidou.

Besides the atmosphere, the food holds real surprises. The first slap from Bush-Bush. Instead of the usual pastries and pies that you can tap, Sébastien Tantot offers real dishes, like quinelle from a pike in fennel flower vinegar, spicy, liquid and tonic. The rest of the list continues to amaze her with “transparent” From the frogs, a hand-sized translucent tile brings back the traditional taste of parsley thighs. A new play on the light with a luxurious entrance “tinted glass”Square made of colorful, glass-like geometric pieces, made from perch, artichoke pulp, batara and tuna. In the amazing creations series, Candy Lens, wedding dress anniversary It consists of lemon syrup and curly parsley made from rocks, covered in a crinkled veil of sugar like Lady Diana’s dress when she married Charles in the ’80s. Visually great dishes, always good and sometimes excellent, almost overkill.

Chef Sebastien Tantou at his inn A la bonne idée, in Saint-Jean-aux-Bois (Oise), on October 19, 2022.

A meal in the hostel (menu from 58 euros) intrigues: what chef would imagine such cuisine today? In his immaculate jacket, Sebastian Tanto – who doesn’t appear in theaters but willingly presents himself if asked – looks younger than his age. easy to talk To buy the hostel alone, in the spring of 2020, he got into debt with the banks. The first year marked by the Covid crisis and repeated closures was fatal to him, but he stuck. “Because this hostel gives meaning to my life.”He explains, weighs his words.

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